Yesterday we walked 30 kms to Lugo, our longest day of the Camino Prmitivo. After leaving O Cadavo at 7:45 in the dark, we had a sharp climb and then, for the rest of the day, a pleasant walk over rolling hills on good trail. Cool, cloudy weather made the walk comfortable and tolerable. Not having any place booked ahead, we had the name of a couple of places where we could get a double room, which has been our preferred accommodation. But there was a fiesta going on in Lugo and the city was jammed so, after a couple of hours trudging through town, we went to the municipal albergue and ended up in a dormitory with 20 bunks. My ear plugs came in handy as the snoring and coughing chorus carried on through the night. This introduction to albergue life for Dave was not ideal as we did not enjoy a great night’s sleep after walking 30 km.
For a while yesterday, I walked with Daniel from Red Deer who, after walking for a week with his daughter Vanessa, was heading back to Canada at the end of the day. He talked to me about “Welcoming Prayer” which basically involves welcoming everything that comes into your life, whether good or bad. It certainly applies on the Camino, where the ups and downs, whether physical, emotional or spiritual, are all part of the pilgrim package.
Today we toured Lugo. After breakfast with John and Allison, Dave and I toured the cathedral, then visited the archeological site of a Roman house from the first century BC, then a museum on the Roman history of Lugo. After that we met with six fellow pilgrims and walked the top of the Roman wall that encircles the old town and is a world heritage site, being the most complete Roman wall in Spain. We are now checked into a hotel with double rooms and looking forward to a quiet night’s sleep.